I own a bungalow in a co-operative in the Shawangunks, south of the Catskills, just off Route 209 in Spring Glen, N.Y. The area abounds in history, that is, if you consider places like the Nevele in Ellenville or Kutchers to the north in Monticello significant. (Both gone now) Personally, I'm not familiar with the history of resorts, but the significance of the Catskills area, especially for New Yorkers of previous generations, it matters.
The borscht belt of old was the training ground for many who went on to be famous entertainers. Like the Coney Island of old, the Catskills was a playground for the not-so-rich. In the sixties and seventies, the Catskill region fell on hard times, and it suffered the way so many other poor areas in New York State have suffered.
Many of the bungalow colonies, that undoubtedly did fabulous business, folded up. Most were deserted and still remain looking like small decaying ramshackle towns. Some such as ours have been turned into co-ops and the summertime occupants have brought in telephones and TVs, indoor toilets and even baseboard heating for those cool evenings. And today we have colony wide WiFi. We have to keep up I guess. Our colony, in addition, has a refurbished pool, a tennis court in need of repair, a decent playground and a sometimes basketball hoop.
Initially, this was not my idea of a vacation. But after renting one summer for two weeks and seeing how attached the kids became, my wife (at the time) and I decided to buy in. That was in 1989. Then there used to be about twenty-five kids running around all summer at our co-op, and the place thrived with laughter and fun, barbecues and swimming. So it's 1992 when this was written. Everyone is up late and they all sleep in mornings. Nothing gets locked up and you can hear the crickets and tree frogs all night, the bubbling stream not far away and the wasps warming their nests just before the sun rises. From the middle of April to the middle of October Spring Glen is our home, while the house in Brooklyn becomes a place to stay during the work week. Opening day is a wild day, mixing memory with desire, as the poet says, and on closing day, you can feel the leaves fall from your heart.
I've made some good friends in the last three years at the co-op, but the thing I've grown most attached to is the relief from this nightmare we call living in New York City. And how does that relief come about? Mainly just from watching things grow, or hearing people speak unhurriedly, or bicycling up a mountain before the sun sets to watch the deer cavort in the fields, or just going no place at all. But in all honesty I have lots of places to go.
On the mornings it doesn't rain, and drought watchers know it doesn't rain much, I walk about four miles as early after sunrise as I can. There are two directions I can go and one has an alternate walk besides. I can walk past the Homowack resort (also defunct these days) up beyond Poplar Grove Cemetery or I can walk up the Mountaindale road where the trees are thick and darkening and glints of morning sun streams through, the way light streams in a cathedral. I always go by myself. And though the excuse is to go exercise, it is not my intent to succumb myself to physical exercise and miss everything that happens. So what happens? Not much.
I know every inch of my walks and can shut my eyes and replay every inch of them as well. The road past Homowack I've laid out in miles from my bungalow. At the first sign announcing the resort, I'm 9/10's of a mile away. At 1.2 miles, I've reached the telephone pole with the noisy electrical box attached to it, just alongside the golf course. At the end of a small New England style stone fence on my right is an apple tree; it's 1.6 miles. The cemetery is 1.9, and if I go the extra distance I'd make it to the gravel pits almost 2 1/2 miles away where some flea bag hound won't stop woofing.
The way is marked by the changing seasons; in particular, there are the masses of wild flowers and the indistinguishable growths that jut out alongside the road and the stream that parallels it. Somehow the way these flowers have avoided the wheels of cars and the fumes that the cars spew, clarify for me, in some heady manner, the drift and hue of life. I don't know the names of the flowers and I guess that doesn't matter since they don't know my name either. I remember them by their shapes and their color and the time of the year that they appear. At some point all the colors appear at once, and they become flaming carpets as they sway from the road's edge into the fields leading to the mountains in the background.
In the early spring there are the white and purplish almost onion-like looking things, prodding up from the soil like little fingers. Next as the deciduous trees burst with leaves and the flight and twitter of insects and birds in pursuit of survival takes place, small yellow balls sit on top of tender shoots. Among them white parasols of lace shoot up and bend in the breezes. As the weather warms bell-shaped fleshy blue climbers attach themselves to road signs, trees and fences, growing up out of soil looking like hardscrabble. By midsummer, everywhere the eye looks is taken over by the reds. Amid the glow and glisten in the fields, yellow and black striped birds glide and land. The red passes on to the nodding heads of heavy golden flowers fiercely challenging the onset of the fall colors and the coming winter.
I really don't know why this scene performs so well for me each and every season. It's not like watching my own children and their friends or even my friends who grow and change and objectively seem different every year. Perhaps I will grow tired of it all soon, and sleep late like the others. Maybe it's just that predictability doesn't disappoint, but instead grows weary, a little the way all relationships can grow weary.
My favorite walk is to veer off away from the cemetery past the Homowack golf course which is seldom played and walk up Myerson road. Defunct colonies of Bungalows lay rotting on either side and the forest encases them like a tomb. Tall pines and scabrous looking hard woods with nary a distinguishing color in the depths hold fast my eye and my heart. I keep walking up the hill, the sun hidden from view, and then suddenly an open field, one a farmer had either forgotten or is letting lay fallow for years, spreads before me. It just bursts in an explosion of green, white, red, blues and yellow. And then I know why I'm there and why I'll never get tired of that scene and what it is about the wild flowers--it's so I can jump up and down and shout "whoopee" at the top of my lungs in total abandonment.